Palo Duro Canyon – Part 3

Hello and welcome to part three, or day 2 of our Palo Duro adventure!

This was to be a big day for our adventure as our plan was to do the Lighthouse trail hike. This trail is roughly 6 miles round trip, and in all honesty, both of us work desk jobs and are in our sixth decade of life. Six miles hikes are not something we do on a daily, weekly, monthly, or even yearly basis. But we were determined, and hopefully prepared, and set out to do this.

We left the hotel before sunrise and entered the park even before there were rangers at the front gate. We made it to the trailhead shortly before sunrise and were greeted with a nice cool breeze. We loaded up our backpacks with water bottles and a minimum of camera lenses, in order to lower our physical requirements, and headed down the trail.

At the trailhead, we met this chipper little guy reminding us not to die. “Thanks buddy.” Might as well have posted, “Death awaits all who enter here unprepared!”

Friendly reminder to not die

Determined that we would not need to be rescued, we started the hike while the sun was still just below the horizon. It made for some nice color in the sky, but as you can see from the photo below, there was not a cloud to be seen. That could spell disaster for us later in the day if we are unable to find shade. The mesquite “trees” (bushes really) don’t offer much in the way of shade when you are over-heating.

Sun beginning to light the sky

Not too far into the hike we came to Capitol Peak and as we began to make our way around it, our old friend Mr. Sun began to peek down at us from behind the crest! Still though, at this time of morning, the temperatures are still reasonable in the low 70s so we should have plenty of time to complete this trek before dying.

Mr. Sun says good morning

As we approached Capitol Peak, we noticed a hoodoo to the left, which we assumed was the Lighthouse off in the distance. We figured the trail would circle around the peak and we would be there. Wrong! While there are places on the trail where you can see the Lighthouse, this isn’t one of them. In our defense, it does kind of look like the Lighthouse from a distance.

Capitol Peak and not the Lighthouse

As Karen tends to do, her eyes spot the beauty of the area in the intricate details which Michael many times overlooks as he is scoping out the big picture.

Beauty in unexpected places

As the sun began creeping up in the sky the light began to dance across the landscape creating beautiful contrast between the highlights and the shadows. This intensified the red color of the rocks and created an atmosphere of ruggedness that could remind one of an old John Ford western.

Light and shadows

Once we made our way around the first obstacle, Capital Peak, we were treated to more of a light show as the rising sun began hitting just the top of the surrounding peaks, leaving the bottoms in shadow.

The peak in half light

Once more, Karen’s eyes went to the delicate beauty of a backlit grass along the trail.

Backlit flora
Karen shooting grass

Meanwhile, Michael was playing with self-portraiture through shadows.

The rising sun casting very long shadows

While we were trying to make the most of our time photographically, we were also very aware that our old friend Mr. Sun was slowly climbing higher and higher into the sky. We were drinking our water and being careful not to overexert our bodies, while also reminding ourselves that this was still the easy part of the trail. The last quarter of the path to Lighthouse is where the trail difficulty really ramps up.

Rock formations (hoodoos) spotlighted by the sun

At this point we are still in the shade of Capital Peak. We know however that this will not last much longer. Not only is the sun getting higher in the sky, but the trail is also about to take us beyond the shade of the peak and head out into the open and toward the Lighthouse.

Prepared for the coming sun

The entire time we were there, we never tired of seeing the layered formations caused by thousands of years of wind and rain, and how the light would bring out their colors and textures.

Light, color, and texture

An interesting point is that much of the rim of the canyon, and indeed most of the canyon itself, is private land. In this photo you can see numerous houses lining the rim of the canyon. I can only imagine the views that these people wake up to each morning. I’m also sure that many of these houses are likely available for rent on some of the rent-by-owner type sites.

Houses along the canyon rim

Finally, after a couple of hours, the Lighthouse comes into view. It is still a good distance away, but at least we can see the destination. I don’t know about you, but when I’m hiking, being able to see where I am headed makes the going just a bit easier. The downside is, as you can see, there is not much shade between where we are and where we are going. Also notice that still, there was not a cloud in the sky. Should we sprint for it? Nah! We drink more water and continue our steady pace.

Lighthouse in the distance

We carry on. We got to the point of the trail where it began to ascend, and the climbing did get a bit sketchy here and there. We were both wearing boots with pretty good grip and protection, but one of us made a simple but painful mistake. While looking through the viewfinder of the camera, a misstep took place, a fall happened, and a leg landed on a prickly pear. A quick check was made to make sure that nothing was broken and there were no major injuries. We then began pulling the long thorns out of the leg, from the ankle up to the bottom. We ended up stopping several more times throughout the day as more of those spikes announced themselves as we moved. And it wasn’t just the big thorns that are easy to see, there were also tiny ones that were only felt as the clothing brushed against the skin. Yes, that’s going to leave a mark.

Prickly pear = pain

Just so you are aware, dear hiker. Those long spikes are very strong. They punctured through denim like nothing and even a few punctured the boot that was being worn! Those suckers are stiff. And somewhat like a porcupine quill, they grab on and do not just slide out when you pull them. I’ll just say that one of us was feeling this for a few weeks to come.

Finally, we reached the Lighthouse. By this time there are already some people here. A few people had passed us on the trail while we were stopping to rest and make photos. Others must have started out even before us this morning. We discussed that would be one good reason to stay inside the park rather than a hotel outside; earlier starts. At least there is some shade here.

Lighthouse

We decided to rest a bit before making the final ascent up to the actual monument. There were a couple of young girls who appeared to be doing some sort of photo shoot and didn’t want to get in their way. The monument wasn’t going anywhere.

Next stop, the top! Well, not actually the top, but up on the monument.

Until next time,

Michael & Karen

All words and photographs copyright 2023 M Hampton Photography

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